Our itineraries in the west of Iran covers some of the most important ancient cities and sites in the country, located on the plain or in the foothills of the Alborz and Alvand mountains, offering scenic beauty as well as historical interest:

QAZVIN – Old Safavid Capital

The Qazvin plain which attracted attention ever since the first inhabitants arrived on the Iranian plateau has among its earliest settlers the Kassites who are believed to have made their homes there as early as the 24th century B.C. But more recently it was the capital of the Safavids in early 16th century before they moved to Isfahan. Among Qazvin’s many historic relics are the Jame Mosque, dating back to the Seljuq period and boasting the largest ‘mihrab’ of any mosque in Iran, the Shrine of Shahzadeh Hossein, a Moslem saint, and the Heydarieh Theological School.

As the capital of the early Safavid kings, Qazvin was the site of government buildings which inspired their more famous counterparts in Isfahan. Names such as A’li Qapu and Chehel- Sotoun are universally associated with Isfahan, yet they originated long before the town became the heart of the empire. Unfortunately Qazvin’s A’li Qapu palace has not withstood the test of time. All that remains is the gateway and part of the guardroom. But due to extensive restoration the Chehel-Sotoun is in far better condition and has been converted into the Qazvin museum.

HAMADAN – Ancient Ecbatana

One of Iran’s oldest cities, located in the Central Zagros Range, Hamadan was once the Median capital Hagmatana, and was also known in its Greek form Ecbatana. As an important Achaemenian capital Hamadan was graced with great palaces and temples the remains of which now lie beneath the modern town. Excavations now being carried at the Hagmatana hills reveal remains of Median and Achaemenian administrative buildings on an extensive level. There is also a museum at the site displaying artifacts found at this and other sites in the region. Ganj-Nameh (Treasure Book), the area’s oldest Achaemenian rock carving is located on the slopes of Mount Alvand. Engraved on two stone panels, the inscriptions in old Persian record the achievements of Darius the Great and Xerxes I. A rare Median relic is the Sang-e-Shir (Stone Lion), a huge statue of a lion believed to have guarded the city gate in Median and Parthian times. Among Hamadan’s Islamic structures is that built over the tomb of Esther and Mordecai, surrounded by a charming garden. According to legend, Esther, Queen of Xerxes, helped establish a Jewish colony near Hamadan, and for this reason the mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage for many Jewish people. The Alavyan Tomb Tower, a 12th century structure is regarded by students of architecture as the finest example of Seljuq art in Iran. The Tomb of Avicenna, Iran’s celebrated philosopher-physician-scientist, who died here in 1034 A.D., and the final resting place of Baba Taher Uryan, the 11th century mystic poet, are among other sites worth a visit.

KANGAVAR – The Temple of Anahita

Kangavar is a small town of great antiquity lying halfway between Hamadan and Kermanshah. In about 200 B.C., during the Seleucid Greek occupation of Kangavar, a major sanctuary was erected to the mother goddess Anahita – who was worshipped in ancient Persia along with Ahura-Mazda and Mithras. This vast temple was built of enormous blocks of dressed stone with an imposing entrance of opposed staircases which may have been inspired by the Apadana at Persepolis.

BISOTOUN – Darius’ Inscription

At a site some 4,000 feet high in the mountains, one of the most famous sites in Near Eastern archaeology has been attracting passersby since time immemorial. It was here that Sir Henry Rawlinson copied the trilingual inscriptions of Darius I, carved in 522 B.C. in Old Persian, Elamite and Akkadian, an important step in the eventual decipherment of cuneiform in the mid-19th century. The Bisotoun relief above the inscription depicts Darius facing the nine rebel kings, whom the Achaemenid ruler s’uppressed when he came to power. At the foot of the hill there are three Parthian reliefs, believed to be the oldest Parthian reliefs, badly damaged by the ravages of time and a land endownment carved by Sheikh Ali-Khan Zanganeh, the premier of Safavid king Shah Soleiman.

 TAGH-E-BOSTAN – Sassanian Reliefs

The Sassanid kings chose a sensational setting for their rock reliefs at Tagh-e-Bostan, four miles northeast of Kermanshah. A sacred spring gushes forth from a mountain cliff and empties into a large reflecting pool. In winter the entire scene is shrouded in mist and clouds. One of the most impressive reliefs, inside the largest grotto or ‘ivan’, is the gigantic equestrian statue of the Sassanid king, Khosrow II (A.D. 591-628) mounted on his favourite charger, Shabdiz. Both horse and rider are arrayed in full battle armour. There are two hunting scenes on opposite sides of the ivan, one depicts the imperial boar hunt and the other in a similar spirit shows the king stalking deer. Elephants flush out the fleeing boars from a marshy lake for the king who stands poised with bow and arrow in hand serenaded by female musicians following in other boats. These royal hunting scenes are among the most vivid of all rock reliefs, true narrative murals in stone. Jumping 1,300 years in time the upper relief shows the 19th century Qajar king Fath-Ali-Shah holding court.

SANANDAJ – Capital of Kurdistan

The capital of the craggy mountainous province of Kurdistan was built on the site of the old Sinneh which was the capital of Kurdistan Province in the Middle Ages. It was also the site of a fortress built by the Abbasid Caliph Amin, but there does not appear to be anything left of old Sanandaj. A strdngly tradition conscious people, the Kurds are fierce fighters and have bravely guarded Iran’s western borders throughout its long history. In typical fashion they resisted the advance of Alexander, and centuries later, the Arabs. The Mongols proved to be a far more tenacious enemy but the Kurds nevertheless managed to inflict heavy casualties on Hulagu Khan’s forces. Today, Sanandaj is a busy town of mainly Kurdish inhabitants and a centre for the region’s trade in agricultural produce as well as local crafts including the famous Senneh klims. Sites of interest include the Masjid-e- Jame, dating back from 1813, with attractive Qajar tilework, the Sanandaj Musuem, displaying artifacts found in the province’s excavation sites, and a very colourful bazaar selling the glittering cloths and tribal costumes of the Kurdish people.